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Bornholm: Far East of the Danish Empire |
By Thomas Hillebrand
(Part 4 of a multipart article)
Wednesday, August 17, 2005
After moorage and changing clothes we went to the one and only restaurant of Christansoe. It was about 10 p.m. Unfortunately the kitchen was already closed. Disappointed, we "dined" with two beers at an incredible price and returned to our boat.
Thursday, August 18, 2005
Fortunately, the weather forecast was not predicting any catastrophes any more and we took the liberty of another harbour day.
 | | Christiansoe harbour |
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The little islands Christiansoe and Frederiksoe, also called Ertholmene (green-peas-islands in Danish), are not only treasures in landscape. You also take a breath of the Baltic history in these places. Nevertheless, we have to say that hardly another place in the Baltic is as crowded as the two "green-peas-islands". Not enough, that moorage in summer times is only possible in rows of four to six boats in combination, ferries come several times every day and bring a lot of day trippers. If you are looking for calmness, go to Bornholm.
 | | The bascule bridge will not be opened to sailing boats! |
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The green-peas-islands are two small rock islands, being inhabited by a few dozen people. They affront the open Baltic a few nautical miles in the north-east of Bornholm. Both islands measure just a few hundred meter in length and are situated close one to each other. They are connected by a pedestrian steel bridge. The harbour is located below the bridge in the small sound. The beauty of landscape is governed by scantiness and by rocks being covered with lichen. At the same time, the bigger island is also a fortification from the 17th century. The shore line is protected with huge walls made from natural stone. The natural material of the island and the walls made from natural stone interweave very discretely. The atmosphere catches everybody. Whilst being mentally relegated into ancient times, the visitor’s look will always be abducted by the solitude of the open sea when looking beyond the heavy walls.
 | | Christiansoe: A fortress in the middle of the Baltic |
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The history of the islands was dominated by their strategic situation. During the Swedish-Polish War (1655 to 1660), in which Denmark was on Poland’s side, the Swedish crown enlarged their power in the Baltic. In 1658 Denmark had to cease all possessions east of the Oeresund. However, the Bornholm inhabitants, having been Danish since the 11th century, protested in December of the same year, disarmed the Swedish occupants, and dispensed the island including the Ertholmene to the Danish king Frederik III (*1609, +1670).
 | | Rantzau‘s bastion was built in 1736 |
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But only 26 years later, the successor of king Frederik, Christian V (*1646, +1699) on the throne decided to use the islands at the most easterly point of Denmark as a fortification. In 1684 ample construction activities started for decades. Under the lead of the Norwegian builder Anthony Coucheron Christiansoe it was equipped to be a fortress – at the very extreme edge of the Danish kingdom and in the middle of a sea area which was governed by the Swedes.
Since 1855 Christiansoe is no official fortress any more but even today the Ertholmene are still governed by the Danish ministry of Defence and do not belong to any administrative district. The inhabitants therefore do not have to pay local taxes. Landlord of the few flats on Christiansoe and Fredriksoe is also the ministry of Defence.
 | | The southerly entrance is the way to the marina part of the port |
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By the way: The entry to Christiansoe and Frederiksoe with pets is prohibited.
Friday, August 19, 2005
 | | Bornholm’s westcoast south of Hammer Odde |
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We were outward bound at 9:40 a.m., weather was beautiful. The weak easterly wind allowed us to sail downwind until we reached Hammer Odde, the north-west cape of Bornholm. After that we had half wind until Roenne. We already moored at 15:35 p.m. in the old harbour of Roenne. Apart from the fact that we are not enthusiastic about big marinas, this small port also offered very good and clean showers and an excellent fish shop with a big variety of fish.
 | | The lighthouse: Roenne’s town landmark |
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With its 15.000 inhabitants, Roenne is the biggest town on the island of Bornholm and the administrative centre of this granite island. The townscape is defined by a quite untroubled accumulation of old, colourful and brick-tiled timbered houses. Even though the rest of the Danish "empire" is four times further than the Swedish coast the walk from the harbour to the centre of Roenne offers scenery which is much more typical for Denmark compared to cities on Sjaeland, Fyn or Jylland.
The marked place of Roenne is the meeting place in summer time. It offers sidewalk cafes, trendy bars, restaurants and all kinds of shops. We have beer in the evening sun and walk through the lanes back to the port.
 | | St. Nicolai: A striking construction above the port |
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On our way we saw the eldest construction in town, the Sct. Nicolai Kirke. This church, like many other churches at the Baltic, is devoted to the patron saint of the seafarers. It was constructed in 1275. Its tower and the transepts were added in the 16th century. The eldest equipment is a baptistery from 1350 which originates from Gotland. When putting to sea the church of Roenne is a landmark which can be seen for a long way.
But this day we did not intend to discover the town, we wanted to go back to our boat. We knew from experience that Scandinavian restaurants offer a bad cost/performance ratio compared to German restaurants. That’s why we had already bought fresh fish soon after arrival. It was quite cheap and very good.
 | | Small boat, great cuisine! |
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Claudia is an enthusiastic cook and we often prepare complex meals on our boat, especially if the harbour is in the vicinity of such an excellent fish shop. No chance for the restaurants here! It was going to be the last dinner during our trip and we had fish in abundance: red herring salad and marinated herring as a starter, stroemming (litte herring), rosefish and whiting filet as intermediate course and a turbot as main course. Such quantities of fish require corresponding quantities of Russian vodka, and we fortunately were not short of it.
Saturday, August 20, 2005
We again faced a long distance: We sailed from Roenne with weak winds (partially under motor) to Freest at the Peene river.
 | | Sunset at the Greifswald lagoon |
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At 7:35 p.m. we had gone the 71 nautical miles and celebrated the trip in our favourite restaurant "An der Waterkant". Wilfried, a friend of ours had come from Wolgast by car to take our lines in the first German port after 26 days.
Sunday, August 21, 2005
We now had only to go the last seven nautical miles up the Peene river to our home port Wolgast. After 752 nautical miles and five countries we were back home again.
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If you want to supplement this article with hints or own experiences, please click here.
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