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Belle Ile: Brittany's outpost in the Atlantic Ocean |
Written by Thomas Hillebrand
This beauty at the south coast of Brittany definitely deserves its name: Belle-Ile-en-Mer. Surrounded by steep rugged rocks it braves the Atlantic Ocean. Incessantly wave after wave breaks at the innumerable corners and angles of the rocks, washing them continuously. Roaring surf and foaming spray are special features of Belle Ile.
The 18km long and 9km wide island in the Atlantic Ocean is located 8 nm south of Quiberon. 5,000 residents share it with up to 20,000 tourists in the peak season. In the center is Le Palais, where 50% of the residents live. Le Palais is dominated by a huge fortress which was constructed at the end of the 16th century by Prestre de Vauban, the fortress builder of Louis XIV.
Entering the port of Le Palais, you can see this bastion very early, a mighty landmark above the harbor.
Le Palais has three port basins which are linked to each other. The first one (coming from sea) is also used for extensive ferry traffic. It therefore might not be very calm. However, during the peak season it often is the only place where you can still find an anchorage or a mooring buoy. Shore trips can therefore only be managed with a dinghy! But despite a tidal range of 3 to 4.5 m on springtide you always have enough water under keel.
The second port basin, which is located in the center of the city, falls nearly completely dry and is therefore not appropriate for sailing boats. It is used by the fishermen.
The third basin, which is independent from tidal streams, can be reached by a lock. This basin is divided by a movable bridge. A boat can comfortably be fixed behind the bridge. This is the place where the sanitation facilities are located.
The port of Le Palais has a romantic touch which has already disappeared a long time ago from the modern marinas on Brittany's coast. Thanks to numerous traditional boats like "Sardiniers", "Thonieres" and "Bisquines" Le Palais was able to preserve this charm. On the quay wall, fishermen are cooking fish soup in big iron pots and offer it together with their catch. But it is not only the port of Le Palais which gives you the impression that this spot in the world has found a clandestine way to resist the pressure of steadfast modernization of all spheres.
Depending on the weather conditions, you can listen to the roaring surf of the Atlantic in every alley during a walk through Le Palais. A special unique highlight in France is without any doubt the double reinforced city wall with several mighty gates. It is well preserved and has also been constructed at the age of Vauban's fortress in today a museum is located.
At Belle Ile's north coast a small fjord is carving the rocks. The corresponding little harbor is called Sauzon. It is unquestionably the favorite motif of painters and photographers coming to Belle Ile. Whitewashed and colored houses are packed into the bight around the fishing harbor. The harbor as well as the fjord fall nearly dry at low tide, making soundings possibly ineffective. Therefore sailors are requested to anchor outside the port entrance. But watch out: The rocks offer a good protection from westerly winds but on low tide, when stream is against the wind, water might be agitated even on weak winds.
 | | Sauzon the nicest place on the island with its long natural port (Photo: www.vapillon.com) |
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The same rules apply to the bights and fjords on the long south westerly coast of Belle Ile. Independent from wind and weather, this is the place with waves meters high, called "hules". Out on the sea, these swells are a pleasant effect for many sailors, however, at the coast these soft giants break and the effect becomes quite gruff, or even worse: fjords turn out to be dangerous traps. That's why the height of the "hules" is a part of the weather report.
You can also discover the rocky coast afoot. Surrounding the natural harbor of Sauzon eastwards on your way to Pointe de Kerzo you will walk directly upon the steep rocky coast with its numerous grottos carved by the surf. The most famous of these, the aphothecaries' grotto (grotte de L'aphothicairerie) is located 3 km south east of sauzon. The water has carved the rock many meters deep and formed a grotto like a cathedral. Unfortunately it was officially closed for safety reasons a few years ago.
 | | Le grand phare - the big lighthouse of the island, southwest near Bangor (Photo: www.vapillon.com) |
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The "Grand Phare" with it's luminous range of 32 nm was constructed in 1835 near Bangor and is still counted among the strongest lighthouses in France. Being erected on the cliff line, it only needs a height of 47 m in order to be 90 meters above the sea. The 256 step ascension is rewarded by a tremendous view!
Bangor, the place nearby, was probably founded in the 6th century and is the oldest settlement on the island. In ancient times Irish monks settled the island. Today Bangor has about 700 residents and is an artist's place. Claude Monet came here to paint and other impressionists followed him.
But also from the culinary point of view, Belle Ile is a rewarding target. The fishermen catch sea spiders, crabs, crayfish, lobster, lots of other seafood and of course fish, especially anchovy. The numerous good restaurants on Belle Ile serve these treasures always very fresh.
More information:
http://www.belle-ile-en-mer.com/
Thomas Hillebrand is writing for marinamap in Germany. The photographer Jacques Vapillon lives in French La Trinité sur mer and is specialized on maritime motifs (see www.vapillon.com).
Supplements to this article written by our visitors
Belle Ile en Mer
Travel Informations
http://www.belle-ile-en-mer.de/engl/start.html
jkaff
Switzerland
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